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      • Faculty Publications  (136)

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      • February 2021 (Revised July 2022)
      • Case

      Sarah Breedlove: Changing the World

      By: Robert Simons and Max Saffer
      This case describes the rise of Sarah Breedlove, who later called herself Madam C.J. Walker, from the cotton fields of Louisiana to the head of a successful, nationwide beauty company providing opportunity and hair care products to Black women. The case describes how... View Details
      Keywords: Brands; African-american Entrepreneurs; Entrepreneurship; Values and Beliefs; Personal Characteristics; Success; Work-Life Balance; Business Startups; Brands and Branding; Marketing; Personal Development and Career; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; United States
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      Simons, Robert, and Max Saffer. "Sarah Breedlove: Changing the World." Harvard Business School Case 121-060, February 2021. (Revised July 2022.)
      • September 2020
      • Teaching Note

      First Aid Beauty

      By: Karen G. Mills and Annie Dang
      Teaching Note for HBS Case No. 319-082. View Details
      Keywords: Entrepreneurship; Venture Capital; Term Sheets; Decision Choices And Conditions; Preferred Shares; Common Stock; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry
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      Mills, Karen G., and Annie Dang. "First Aid Beauty." Harvard Business School Teaching Note 321-013, September 2020.
      • August 2020 (Revised January 2021)
      • Supplement

      Facelift at Olay (B)

      By: Sunil Gupta, Rajiv Lal and Olivia Hull
      This supplement to Facelift at Olay (A) explains the major steps Procter & Gamble’s skincare brand Olay took to reverse several years of declining sales. View Details
      Keywords: Advertising; Advertising Campaigns; Demographics; Age; Brands and Branding; Marketing Channels; Competitive Strategy; Competitive Advantage; Digital Marketing; Transformation; Marketing Strategy; Social Marketing; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; United States; Ohio
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      Gupta, Sunil, Rajiv Lal, and Olivia Hull. "Facelift at Olay (B)." Harvard Business School Supplement 521-002, August 2020. (Revised January 2021.)
      • August 2020 (Revised September 2020)
      • Case

      Facelift at Olay (A)

      By: Sunil Gupta, Rajiv Lal and Olivia Hull
      By October 2017, Procter & Gamble’s skincare brand Olay has been struggling with declining sales for several years. The team has tried many remedies, but none has returned the brand to growth. As pressure grows from Olay’s competitors, including hundreds of new... View Details
      Keywords: Advertising; Advertising Campaigns; Demographics; Age; Brands and Branding; Marketing Channels; Competitive Advantage; Competitive Strategy; Digital Marketing; Transformation; Marketing Strategy; Social Marketing; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; United States; Ohio
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      Gupta, Sunil, Rajiv Lal, and Olivia Hull. "Facelift at Olay (A)." Harvard Business School Case 521-011, August 2020. (Revised September 2020.)
      • July 2020
      • Case

      Amanda and Kristen: Mented Cosmetics

      By: Steven Rogers, Jeffrey J. Bussgang and Alterrell Mills
      The co-founders (Black HBS alumnae) of an e-commerce beauty startup explore the unmet needs within the beauty industry. This case study examines the entrepreneurial opportunities that come from identifying an underserved market, specifically within the Black community... View Details
      Keywords: Brands and Branding; Competition; Customers; Disruption; Disruptive Innovation; Distribution Channels; Entrepreneurship; Finance; Macroeconomics; Marketing; Marketing Channels; Marketing Communications; Marketing Strategy; Mission and Purpose; Organizational Culture; Product Design; Product Development; Product Positioning; Sales; Social Issues; Social Marketing; Business Startups; Strategic Planning; Strategy; Supply Chain Management; Venture Capital; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; North and Central America; United States; New York (city, NY); New York (state, US)
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      Rogers, Steven, Jeffrey J. Bussgang, and Alterrell Mills. "Amanda and Kristen: Mented Cosmetics." Harvard Business School Case 321-002, July 2020.
      • June 2020
      • Teaching Note

      Shiseido Acquires Drunk Elephant

      By: Jill Avery
      On October 7, 2019, the Shiseido Group announced that it would acquire clean skincare brand Drunk Elephant for $845 million, a valuation of 8.5 times sales. Did Shiseido pay too much or too little for this brand asset? How much was the Drunk Elephant brand worth and... View Details
      Keywords: Brand Management; Brand Valuation; Brand Equity; Brand Value; Mergers & Acquisitions; Startup; DTC; Brand Portfolio Strategy; Marketing; Marketing Strategy; Brands and Branding; Mergers and Acquisitions; Valuation; Entrepreneurship; Business Startups; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; United States; Japan; Asia; North America
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      Avery, Jill. "Shiseido Acquires Drunk Elephant." Harvard Business School Teaching Note 520-121, June 2020.
      • May 2020
      • Teaching Note

      Shiseido: Reinvesting in Brand

      By: Jill Avery
      Teaching Note for HBS Case No. 519-026. Shiseido was in the midst of a six year corporate turnaround, trying to reverse the effects of decades of under-investment in R&D and marketing that had led to a vicious cycle of declining customer support and brand value. Would... View Details
      Keywords: Brand Management; Marketing ROI; Brand Portfolio Strategy; Growth Strategy; Marketing; Marketing Strategy; Brands and Branding; Growth and Development Strategy; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Japan; Asia
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      Avery, Jill. "Shiseido: Reinvesting in Brand." Harvard Business School Teaching Note 520-116, May 2020.
      • April 2020
      • Teaching Note

      Glossier: Co-Creating a Cult Brand with a Digital Community

      By: Jill Avery
      Teaching Note for HBS No. 519-022. Flush with cash from its Series C fundraise, cult beauty brand Glossier considers its next phase of growth, facing critical decisions on how to allocate its capital to support various marketing communications and distribution... View Details
      Keywords: Digital Marketing; Crowdsourcing; CRM; Startup; Direct-to-consumer; DTC; Marketing; Marketing Strategy; Brands and Branding; Consumer Behavior; Customer Relationship Management; Venture Capital; Business Startups; Entrepreneurship; Social Media; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; United States
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      Avery, Jill. "Glossier: Co-Creating a Cult Brand with a Digital Community." Harvard Business School Teaching Note 520-099, April 2020.
      • February 2020
      • Case

      Leading Change in Talent at L'Oréal

      By: Lakshmi Ramarajan, Vincent Dessain and Emer Moloney
      Jean-Claude Le Grand just stepped into a new role as Executive Vice-President for Human Resources at the global cosmetics company, L’Oréal. He is now responsible for the hiring, development, promotion, and retention of 83,000 employees worldwide. The highly successful... View Details
      Keywords: Advertising; Business Headquarters; Business Divisions; Business Organization; Change; Change Management; Transformation; Competency and Skills; Experience and Expertise; Talent and Talent Management; Demographics; Diversity; Gender; Nationality; Multinational Firms and Management; Human Resources; Employees; Recruitment; Retention; Selection and Staffing; Innovation and Management; Jobs and Positions; Employment; Human Capital; Leadership; Leadership Development; Leadership Style; Leading Change; Management Practices and Processes; Marketing; Brands and Branding; Product Marketing; Organizations; Organizational Change and Adaptation; Organizational Structure; Personal Development and Career; Planning; Strategic Planning; Problems and Challenges; Networks; Social Psychology; Attitudes; Power and Influence; Social and Collaborative Networks; Business Strategy; Advertising Industry; Advertising Industry; Advertising Industry; France; Paris
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      Ramarajan, Lakshmi, Vincent Dessain, and Emer Moloney. "Leading Change in Talent at L'Oréal." Harvard Business School Case 420-106, February 2020.
      • November 2019 (Revised June 2020)
      • Case

      Shiseido Acquires Drunk Elephant

      By: Jill Avery
      On October 7, 2019, the Shiseido Group announced that it would acquire clean skincare brand Drunk Elephant for $845 million, a valuation of 8.5 times sales. Did Shiseido pay too much or too little for this brand asset? How much was the Drunk Elephant brand worth and... View Details
      Keywords: Personal Care; Startup; Brand Equity; Brand Valuation; Brand Value; Brand Storytelling; Brand Management; Brands and Branding; Valuation; Marketing; Marketing Strategy; Mergers and Acquisitions; Entrepreneurship; Business Startups; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; United States; Japan
      Citation
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      Avery, Jill. "Shiseido Acquires Drunk Elephant." Harvard Business School Case 520-052, November 2019. (Revised June 2020.)
      • October 2019 (Revised December 2019)
      • Case

      La Roche-Posay: Growing L'Oreal's Active Cosmetics Brand

      By: Jill Avery, Vincent Dessain and Mette Fuglsang Hjortshoej
      As 2018 neared its end, Laetitia Toupet, international general manager of L’Oréal’s La Roche-Posay brand reflected on the brand’s achievements over the past year. At €1 billion in revenue, La Roche-Posay had recently become the number one dermocosmetics brand in the... View Details
      Keywords: Branding; Brand Management; Consumer Products; Brand Positioning; Target Market; Global Brands; Global Marketing; Marketing; Marketing Strategy; Brands and Branding; Globalized Firms and Management; Consumer Products Industry; Consumer Products Industry; Consumer Products Industry; France; Europe; Brazil; China; Asia; South America; United States; North America
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      Avery, Jill, Vincent Dessain, and Mette Fuglsang Hjortshoej. "La Roche-Posay: Growing L'Oreal's Active Cosmetics Brand." Harvard Business School Case 520-035, October 2019. (Revised December 2019.)
      • January 2019
      • Case

      First Aid Beauty

      By: Karen Mills and Annie Dang
      In 2008, Lilli Gordon, an experienced financial and skincare entrepreneur, founded First Aid Beauty (FAB). She had discovered a white space in the prestige beauty market: high-end skin solutions that were suitable for sensitive skin. After initial success through... View Details
      Keywords: Prestige Beauty; Skincare; Preferred Shares; Common Stock; Entrepreneurship; Venture Capital; Private Equity; Decision Choices and Conditions; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry
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      Mills, Karen, and Annie Dang. "First Aid Beauty." Harvard Business School Case 319-082, January 2019.
      • January 2019 (Revised October 2019)
      • Case

      Glossier: Co-Creating a Cult Brand with a Digital Community

      By: Jill Avery
      Glossier’s proclaimed strategy was “born from content; fueled by community.” The digital-first, direct-to-consumer beauty brand had experienced rapid growth, with sales up 600% in 2017 and a customer portfolio that grew by threefold. But, its founder, Emily Weiss, was... View Details
      Keywords: Brands; Brand Management; Brand Communication; Retailing; DTC; Influencer; Startup; Internet Marketing; Big Data; Crowdsourcing; Growth and Development Strategy; Social Media; E-commerce; Internet and the Web; Digital Marketing; Consumer Products Industry; Consumer Products Industry; Consumer Products Industry; United States; North America
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      Avery, Jill. "Glossier: Co-Creating a Cult Brand with a Digital Community." Harvard Business School Case 519-022, January 2019. (Revised October 2019.)
      • December 2018 (Revised October 2020)
      • Case

      Shiseido: Reinvesting in Brand

      By: Jill Avery and Nobuo Sato
      Shiseido was in the midst of a six year corporate turnaround, trying to reverse the effects of decades of under-investment in R&D and marketing which had led to a cycle of declining customer support and brand value. Would the CEO’s VISION 2020 plan, centered on four... View Details
      Keywords: Brand Management; Brand Value; Turnaround; Brand Portfolio; Brand Communication; Global Brands; Digital Marketing; Return On Investment; Marketing ROI; Internet Marketing; Marketing; Marketing Strategy; Brands and Branding; Value; Growth and Development Strategy; Investment Return; Consumer Behavior; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Japan; Asia
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      Avery, Jill, and Nobuo Sato. "Shiseido: Reinvesting in Brand." Harvard Business School Case 519-026, December 2018. (Revised October 2020.)
      • 2018
      • Working Paper

      Sustainability and Green Business in Latin America During Globalization Waves

      By: Geoffrey Jones
      This working paper examines the impact of modern business enterprise on the natural environment of Latin America during the globalization waves between the 19th century and the present day. It argues that although global capitalism created much wealth for the region,... View Details
      Keywords: Globalization; Natural Environment; Outcome or Result; Business History; Pollutants; Environmental Sustainability; Green Technology Industry; Green Technology Industry; Green Technology Industry; Latin America
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      Jones, Geoffrey. "Sustainability and Green Business in Latin America During Globalization Waves." Harvard Business School Working Paper, No. 19-009, August 2018.
      • February 2018 (Revised October 2019)
      • Technical Note

      The Art and Science of Brand Valuation

      By: Jill Avery
      Brand valuation, the art and science of calculating the economic value accruing to a firm from its use of an intangible brand asset, yields frustratingly inconsistent, discrepant, and, therefore, controversial results. While it is widely accepted that brands are... View Details
      Keywords: Brand Valuation; Brand Value; Brand; Brand Management; Marketing ROI; Brand Equity; Analytics; Return On Investment; Brands and Branding; Valuation; Marketing; Marketing Strategy; Investment Return; Consumer Behavior; Advertising Industry; Advertising Industry; Advertising Industry; Advertising Industry; Advertising Industry; Advertising Industry; Advertising Industry; Advertising Industry
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      Avery, Jill. "The Art and Science of Brand Valuation." Harvard Business School Technical Note 518-086, February 2018. (Revised October 2019.)
      • November 2017 (Revised October 2018)
      • Case

      Brandless: Disrupting Consumer Packaged Goods

      By: Jill Avery
      Brandless, an online direct-to-consumer seller of upscale private-label consumer packaged goods, offered consumers a limited assortment of values-conscious products delivered directly to their homes with the simplicity of one fixed $3 price point that promised an... View Details
      Keywords: Brand; Brand Management; Retailing; Retailing Industry; Private Label; Direct To Consumer Marketing; Ecommerce; Digital Marketing; Consumer Packaged Goods; Startup; Marketing; Marketing Strategy; Disruption; Food; Product Marketing; Marketing Channels; Consumer Behavior; Brands and Branding; Venture Capital; E-commerce; Consumer Products Industry; Consumer Products Industry; Consumer Products Industry; Consumer Products Industry; United States; North America
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      Avery, Jill. "Brandless: Disrupting Consumer Packaged Goods." Harvard Business School Case 518-044, November 2017. (Revised October 2018.)
      • 2017
      • Book

      Profits and Sustainability: A History of Green Entrepreneurship

      By: Geoffrey Jones
      This book explores whether profits and environmental sustainability are compatible through the lens of a global history of green entrepreneurship between the nineteenth century and today. It tells the story of the extraordinary and often eccentric men and women who... View Details
      Keywords: Environmental Entrepreneurship; Green Business; Sustainability; Entrepreneurship; Ethics; Business History; Religion; Environmental Sustainability; Agriculture and Agribusiness Industry; Agriculture and Agribusiness Industry; Agriculture and Agribusiness Industry; Agriculture and Agribusiness Industry; Agriculture and Agribusiness Industry; Agriculture and Agribusiness Industry; Agriculture and Agribusiness Industry; Agriculture and Agribusiness Industry; Agriculture and Agribusiness Industry; Africa; Asia; Europe; Latin America; North and Central America; Oceania
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      Jones, Geoffrey. Profits and Sustainability: A History of Green Entrepreneurship. New York: Oxford University Press, 2017.
      • April 2017 (Revised February 2023)
      • Case

      Helena Rubinstein: Making Up the Modern Woman

      By: Geoffrey Jones and Kathy Choi
      This case examines the entrepreneurial career of Helena Rubinstein before 1938. Rubinstein is widely considered the single most important female entrepreneur in the United States in the 20th century. She was born in Poland but immigrated to Australia where she started... View Details
      Keywords: Female Entrepreneur; Brands and Branding; Luxury; Entrepreneurship; Personal Development and Career; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry
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      Jones, Geoffrey, and Kathy Choi. "Helena Rubinstein: Making Up the Modern Woman." Harvard Business School Case 317-116, April 2017. (Revised February 2023.)
      • Spring 2017
      • Article

      Globalizing Latin American Beauty

      By: Geoffrey Jones
      This article discusses the growth over time of the beauty industry in Latin America and its bias towards celebrating whiter rather than darker skin. Although alleged Latin American fascination with beauty is regularly ascribed to culture, Latin sensuousness, and... View Details
      Keywords: Latin America; Race And Ethnicity; Globalization; Race; Ethnicity; Prejudice and Bias; Beauty and Cosmetics Industry; Latin America
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      Jones, Geoffrey. "Globalizing Latin American Beauty." ReVista: Harvard Review of Latin America 16, no. 3 (Spring 2017): 10–14.
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